Beauty buzzwords are thrown around all the time; it can be hard to keep up and know what's worth exploring further. We're here to break down the industry's latest obsession by tackling the science, talking to skincare and makeup pros, and getting real about what works and what doesn’t.
We're seeing a lot of chat about products free from Parabens and Sulphates but just what are they, and why are they so damaging?
Let’s break it down...
Parabens are a type of preservative and sulphates are salts from sulphuric acid (which is a common ingredient in drain cleaners and acid batteries…) and are a cleansing agent. They can both be found in most products, from toothpaste and spray tan to face scrubs and lube.
Pretty simply, parabens kill bacteria and fungi, and sulphates fight dirt and grease – they also cause products like shampoo, cleanser and body wash to foam and lather up. While both have been used in products for years, there’s been a lot of noise around hair and skincare that's free from these chemicals. According to a spokesperson at skincare brand YOUNOM, “Many companies continue to use sulphates because they have a low cost.” They may make our favourite products cheap to manufacture, but what exactly is the health risk?
Well, let’s just say there’s a long list of concerns. They can irritate sensitive skin, react with UVB leading to increased skin damage, and can wreak havoc on hair. Sam Burnett, Owner & Creative Director of London hair salon Hare & Bone, says: “Cheaper brands that contain sulphates can cause hair colour to fade, irritate the scalp, and in extreme cases, cause hair loss. They strip the hair of natural oils, making it brittle, rough and dry.” Not ideal, then.
Philip B, the founder of Philip b. Botanicals, reiterates this: “It’s true that SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate) alone is very destructive to hair and skin — it’s as harsh as some dishwashing liquids. The sad fact is that most shampoos, even at the high end, are a simple mix of water, detergent and fragrance, and unless the SLS is thoroughly buffered by conditioning elements, it can strip the hair and leave it dry and dull – and at high strengths it can seriously damage the hair.”
Should we swap for products that are sulphate- and paraben-free, then? Henrik Berg, Export Manager at dreamy haircare brand Maria Nila, told us: “There are so many good sulphate- and paraben-free products out there now which are kinder to your hair and your scalp, without the strong ingredients that can disrupt your body’s natural balance. These are much better for those with sensitive skin and are less likely to cause an allergic reaction. They contain less harmful alternatives which cleanse the hair and scalp while preserving its colour and health.”
Colourist extraordinaire Christophe Robin is resolutely anti-parabens and sulphates in haircare: “You would never wash your silk blouses with detergent; the same rule applies to your hair. Whether your hair is coloured, highlighted, natural, dry, frizzy or fragile, a gentle, silicone and harmful sulphate-free formula is important. Adopt the 'low ‘poo method' used by Californian and Brazilian women who 'wash' their hair with masks or conditioners to avoid damaging already weakened hair.”
And if we miss the squeaky-clean feeling sulphates do give us? “Try using a scalp exfoliator. French women try to wash their hair only once a week, because excessive washing thins the hair and irritates the scalp. The less washing the better, but the frequency also depends on the climate. For a thorough detox, try Cleansing Purifying Scrub with Sea Salt, to prevent your hair from getting too oily.”
As Philip B argues, you shouldn’t worry too much. High-quality haircare contains conditioning and natural ingredients that counteract the damaging impact of sulphates and parabens. “The FDA maintains that parabens, common preservatives, are safe for use in cosmetics and other personal care products. But most of us clean-beauty fans have been consciously phasing them out of our product lines and personal daily regimens. I don't think you need to be fanatical about it, but it can't hurt to play it safe.”
So if you want to keep your hair in tip-top shape, click through to see our favourite paraben- and sulphate-free products.
How gorgeous does avocado and peppermint sound? Philip B does in fact use a little sulphate in his products, as he explains: "If you’re using a premium shampoo like mine, which contains pure botanicals at therapy strengths, don’t worry if you see SLS on the ingredients list. I use so many plant and flower oils that the SLS is rendered all but inactive: it’s just there to carry the oils and help you lather up. The sulphates we do use are specifically designed to deliver nutrients and potent conditioning agents to your hair, not to counteract their effects. If you're using more conventional shampoos, stick mainly to SLS-free formulas but use one that lathers up (gently!)."
Philip B Peppermint & Avocado Volumising & Clarifying Shampoo, £31, available at Space.NK
Maria Nila is the go-to brand for problem scalps – their products soothe your skin and make hair super-silky at the same time. This treatment for blonde and bleached hair removes brassy tones and returns hair to that fresh-from-the-salon shine. Henrik told us: "All Maria Nila products – from the hair dyes and styling range to the haircare range – are both sulphate- and paraben-free. We have developed formulas for all hair types, from dry and damaged hair to fine hair which could do with a boost of volume."
Maria Nila Sheer Silver Masque, £18.95, available at Sally Express
This sounds like the most luxe liquid we could treat our tresses with. Robin is a master of colour, so we trust him when he says: "As hair colours tend to wash out of hair more quickly when sulphates are used, I developed my range to specially care for the colour-treated hair of the actresses whose hair I colour. The formulas have a slightly acidic pH and contain lots of nourishing ingredients, no harsh sulphates and no silicones, which I found to be the best way to preserve my clients’ colour and simulate ‘salon treatment’ results for them at home and on location."
Christophe Robin Moisturising Hair Oil With Lavender, £34, available at Net-A-Porter
This sulphate-free shampoo is a game-changer in the unruly hair department. Fatty acids and vitamins help restructure damaged hair, and honey and avocado oil bring the smooth to your strands.
Rossano Ferretti Intenso Softening and Smoothing Shampoo, £34, available at Rossano Ferretti
The price speaks for itself but you can always rely on The Body Shop for providing us with no-nasties products. This divine-smelling shampoo is free from silicones, sulphates, parabens and colourants. Nice one guys.
The Body Shop Rainforest Moisture Shampoo, £5, available at The Body Shop
More Break It Down:
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